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Saturday, November 2, 2013

Sugar Skull, Day of the Dead, Calavera, Dia De Los Muertos Makeup Tutorial: Halloween Makeup

Hi there!

This Halloween I was inspired by Dia De Los Muertos and was a Sugar Skull/Calavera.  The whole look took 45 minutes from start to finish.  My inspiration came from the following:

Google Images

Skull Tattoo

Skull Tattoo

To get started, you'll need some supplies.  Here's what I used for this look:

Makeup
1.  Ben Nye Clown White (for base of face)
2.  Ben Nye Creme Paint, Black (for shadowing effect and teeth detail)
3.  Ben Nye Creme Paint, Red (for roses)
4.  Ben Nye Creme Paint, Yellow (for leaves/roses/dots)
5.  Ben Nye Creme Paint, Green (for leaves)
*I use a Rainbow Wheel instead of individual colors 
6.  Gel Eyeliner (Bh Cosmetics Onyx and Fresh) detail with roses/teeth and Mint colored dots
7.  Liquid Eyeliner (for swirls/dots/scallop trim of eyes) L'Oreal Lineur Intense, Black
8.  Elise Rhinestone Lashes, Madame Madeline, Elise #121 and Glue (I use Ardell clear)
9.  Mascara, L'Oreal Telescopic, Black
10.  Silver Glitter, Nyx Silver
11.  Light Yellow/Teal Green/Shamrock Green eyeshadows, Coastal Scents Creative Me #1 Palette
12.  Setting Spray, Model in a Bottle

Costume
1.  Flowers for your hair (I chose sunflowers and berry sprigs, purchased Halloween section at Wal-Mart)
5.  Large Hoop Earrings, Wal-Mart
6.  Bangles, lots! (various stores)
7.  Jeweled cami, Vanity, similar HERE
9.  Ballroom heel shoes/Steampunk boots, I wore some brown ballroom-esque heels with cut-outs on the toe I bought at Payless in the early 2000's.
10.  Hairpiece (I used a large clip in blonde ponytail I bought at the wig shop in the mall)

Elise #121
Here is my clean face (this is from a Make Up Forever HD post) to show my 'before'.


Here is my after!


I included a 'stitch' detail on the throat and neck with some 'vertebrae' and clavicles and sternum.


To do this look, here is a step by step:

1.  Prep face with moisturizer, let dry
(At this point get hair off the face so you don't have whispies in the gooey creme paint.  I pulled my hair into two ponytails high on my head, split in a center part.  No Miley Cyrus, bleh.  Braided each ponytail and tied with elastics.  Then I pulled one braid across the top of my head and pinned it behind the opposite ponytail top.  Did the same with the other.  The effect is a thick dual braid wrapped at the crown of the head)  Clip in hairpiece on top of braids, using a braid to clamp onto for stability.  Tuck in flowers/bead/ribbons/etc. Bobby pin back bangs. There's your hair!
2.  Cover face with clown white
3.  Add black around eyes with upward 'brow' towards forehead
4.  Draw in detail of teeth with black like individual u's for each tooth, blend upward and downward to mimic rooting of teeth in jaw
5.  Draw in TMJ joint on the sides of face, blend towards upper teeth all in black
6.  Cleft in chin and around jawline in black
7.  Draw spiderweb on forehead with 7 lines starting at forehead and drawn at a curve to a point in center forehead where rose will go.  Connect with half circle 'loops' to make spiderweb
8.  Using black liquid liner/gel liner, scallop around eyes
9.  Draw nose, with white in the middle for septum and triangles on top for detail
10.  Paint black on throat in bib pattern
11.  Using clown white over black, draw on vertebrae in a bow tie shape, use black in the middle to create shading
12.  Draw on clavicles with clown white, using your own as a guideline, use black for detail
13.  Draw on top of sternum with clown white, a rounded shape, using black for detail
14.  Using your artistic finesse add shading at the top of skull, around teeth and jawbone- get it as spooky or detailed as you wish.
15.  Using yellow and mint, make dots around throat for detail
16.  Take red creme paint and smudge around black bib on throat to look wounded and add red around bones for detail
17.  Use black eyeliner and make x's around perimeter of bib for stitches
18.  Fill in brows with black gel eyeliner and brush with spoolie
19.  Apply false lashes, line with liquid liner on top
20.  Mascara to anchor lashes and define eye
21.  Draw roses with red, leaving white in between each 'petal' for depth.  I start with a swirly pattern like this @ to make the center of the rose.  Then I do a ( around the @ to make the petals



Sort of like the drawing above....Keep building ( shapes around the @ until you get a flower.  Build it until it looks just the way you want it.
22.  Draw on leaves with green, making a long V shape.  I leave the center of the leaf open for the yellow to be placed, for depth.
23.  Add swirls with black liquid liner to add detail.  You can put little dots too.  Whatever your Sugar Skull heart desires.
24.  Shade eyes with bright yellow creme paint in the center of the lid.  Then build light green on top of yellow and shade at inset and outer corner of eyes with darker green.  It won't be too visible with the black creme sockets.  The goal is to get a bright center and keep the eyelids from being flat.


That was it!  The beauty of this look is that it's adaptable to any flower/design you'd like.  You can use more color and you don't have to begin with black and white.  You can wear a wig, rearrange the flowers, what have you.  I went for a more traditional Sailor Jerry-esque approach.



Hope you had a wonderful Halloween!  I hope you got lots of goodies and weren't bombarded with cheap candy like Sweet Tarts and Smarties.  Bring me chocolate!

Have a great day,
T
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