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Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Swatches + Review of Kat Von D's Spellbinding Eyeshadow Palette

Hi there!

Fresh off the Sephora press is one of Kat Von D's holiday collection items:  The Spellbindinig Eyeshadow Palette!

Super excited to get this to review and swatch as I really appreciate Kat Von D's makeup line.  The shadows always perform really well and hold up, even without primer.  I have about 5 of her standard palettes and this is my first large palette from her collection.

Here's Sephora's blurb:

Kat Von D's Instagram
What it is:
A mesmerizing 24-pan eye shadow book of rich, spellbinding shades that harmoniously pair to create endless looks. 

What it does:
Each set of shades can be paired together to create perfectly layered looks reminiscent of old school shade-shifters. The shadows glide on effortlessly to blend and layer seamlessly. Each of the rich, creamy colors is formulated with a high-pigment load for incredible payoff with just one swipe. Experience incredibly long-lasting crease-free color with shades won’t budge or flake—this is the same great formula that Kat Von D is known for. Together, they’re the perfect mix of neutral shades and bold pops of color in a beautiful box featuring Kat’s original artwork. This palette is the perfect gift for any makeup lover or yourself. 

What it is formulated WITHOUT:
- Parabens 

What else you need to know:
These potent shadows are infused with rose extract to keep the skin around eyes hydrated.

Suggested Usage (as in, how to apply):
-Tip: Apply Kat Von D’s High Voltage Eye Primer to eyelids, ensuring that your eye shadow lasts all day or night. 
-Apply Geek on lids, then blend Fallen on top for a bronzed peach shadow. 
-Apply Fallen on lids, then blend Geek on top for a perfect golden shadow. 
-For a more natural look, apply Galore all over lid and up to browbone. Lightly blend Hexagram into crease for a soft look. 
-For a bolder style apply Precious on lids, then lightly blend Dark Throne on top. Continue to blend Precious on top and up into crease until blended softly for a smoky look.

Ingredients:  Hydrogenated Lecithin, Rosa Canina Flower Extract, Safflower Seed Oil, Trimyristin, Potassium Sorbate,Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Phenoxyethanol, Tin Oxide, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Carmine (ci 75470). May Contain(+ / -) : Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Ultramarines (Ci 77007), Ferric Ferrocyanide (Ci 77510), Yellow 5 Lake (Ci 19140:1), Chromium Oxide Greens (ci 77288), Blue 1 Lake (Ci 42090:2), Manganese Violet (Ci 77742), Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (77019).

Price: $55.00 US and qualifies for free shipping!  (p.s.  add samples from your cart and use promo codes on Sephora's weekly promo page to get free goodies too!)

Below is a look at the cardboard (thin almost manila-folder filing outer cover) that encases the cardboard palette.  Artwork courtesy of Kat Von D, of coise!

The back of the outer cover includes hyper-focused images of each shade.  An asterisk denotes colors that are exclusive to this palette and are not previously released.  There are 12 new shades making half of this palette colors you can get elsewhere.

Once you open the palette encasing, the actual product is rather thin black cardboard with the same girl on the front sans the skull wallpaper motif border.  The back shows individual shots of each color, grouped in pairs to show suggested application techniques.

When you open it, there is a clear plastic flap that overlays on top of the shadows.  The names of each shade are printed on the flap. It's not my favorite because until you have the palette  memorized, you're flipping the flap (say that 8 times fast) back and forth to figure out what color it is.  I would've preferred Kat's usual approach of having the shade name printed below the pan.

The hearts indicate new shades.  They are, from top to bottom, left to right (sorry my photo is blurry):

1.  Dark Throne, black
2.  8 Bit, silvery teal
3.  Instaglam, silver pearled baby pink
4.  Stupid Autocorrect, metallic rosy plum
5.  Smile Now, peach with violet duochrome
6.  Cry Later, metallic russet
7.  Queen, red-brown with green duochrome (darker brown dupe for MAC Club)
8.  Piaf, deep metallic silver
9.  Geek, shimmery bright peach
10  Hexagram, pearled warm brown
11.  Arcadia, shimmery pink toned lavender
12.  Countess, satin ivory peach

Already released colors are:

1.  Precious- Tattoo Chronicles Candelabra palette
2.  Sunset Blvd- Tattoo Chronicles Candelabra palette
3.  Holy Bible- Tattoo Chronicles Candelabra palette, Sinner palette
4.  Oddfellow- Tattoo Chronicles Candelabra palette
5.  Bukowski- True Romance Angeles palette
6.  Babe- Poetica palette
7.  Fallen- True Romance 4 shade palette Starstruck
8.  Birdcage- Gypsy palette
9.  Gunner- Gypsy palette
10.  Galore- True Romance 4 shade palette Little Saint
11.  Wonderland- Poetica palette
12.  WTF- Tattoo Chronicles palette

You can see that her prior release of Tattoo Chronicles Candelabra palette has 4 of the 12 prior shades and Holy Bible is also in 2 other palettes.  Below is a shot of the pans with flash!

Below is an enhanced photo because my flash washes out Holy Bible ( #4 from top left, looks white when it's silver) and Instaglam (#5 from top left, which is peachy pink, not ivory) and Galore (#4 down, third column to the right, which is peachy shimmer, not yellow).  You can see how pretty Oddfellow is (that glittery blue/black stunner, second column, third down) and Babe (lavender duochrome, top, third column). And Gunner (that glittery green there on the right) is gorgeous!

Musings of a Muse image

The left side of the palette, with shade names:

Right side of the palette, with shade names:

Up next are individual swatches on my hand.  I foiled these with water and a Loew-Cornell 245B shader brush.  I found this method gave the best payoff compared to dry (showed very sheerly) and primer (Nars shadow primer, took a ton of layers to get payoff).  So here is the Spellbinding palette all ready for you to check out!  I've used these shades with concealer as a primer and MAC's Paint Pot in Painterly and still, very hard to get payoff on some of these shadows.  What gives, Kat?

My photos aren't as crisp but the color and texture of these are pretty much Satin with some glitter in a few, you'll see the glittery ones.  My fave out of this bunch are 8 bit, Oddfellow, and Stupid Autocorrect.

Out of these, I found better payoff with this set of shades than any other section of the palette.  Queen is a dupe for MAC's Club, the Wet N' Wild Comfort Zone palette, and Urban Decay's Lounge.  It's the standard russet with green duochrome you can find just about anywhere these days.  

My fave of this set are Smile Now (cheaper version is Aromaleigh's Zinnia, which you find on ebay for like $5).  Zinnia pays off better, is the same peach with violet duochrome and is a brighter color overall.  It's what Smile Now is trying really hard to be.  My swatch took about 8 layers to produce that color of peach.  

Wonderland and WTF and Birdcage and Gunner are GORGEOUS!  Galore was very shimmery and crumbly and Countess applied like wet clay and then dried to a chalky pale ivory tinged peach.  Almost like a very pale pink nude.  Arcadia although highly reflective and a lovely lavender took a lot of layering as well.

Full palette swatch below over MAC's Full Coverage foundation (to mimic concealer/Paint Pot/etc) so you can see how these apply with basic lids and primers on the market.  I wanted to show each color in relation to each other.  You get a better sense of the more pale shades and how they look next to other colors in the palette.  I feel this type of primer worked a thousand times better than something like Urban Decay's Primer Potion or Nars' Primer.  These shadows need something to grab to.

I also hate to say it, but some of these took 5-6 swipes to get this swatch line.

1 is Dark Throne, 12 is Bukowski- the left side of the palette
13 is Babe, 24 is WTF, the right side of the palette
*the colors go from left to right on the original packaging and my larger swatches, each intended pair next to each other.

My overall impression is that this is a palette you can live without.  I foiled these swatches with water which made a lot of the shades a crumbly mess that took 5 coats to get payoff.  Others were wonderful- like Hexagram and WTF and Wonderland.  The worst performers were Precious, Instaglam, Geek, Countess, and Smile Now.  They took so many swipes to get payoff.  I was bummed because I was so excited to get this palette and show it off.  I'm afraid it's going to see a lot of drawer time in my stash.

I think these demand a primer as dry swatches left all but the most dark shades a streaky, pale mess.  I don't know if this was banged out as a quick holiday money-maker or what, but these are not the same lovely shades you'll get in individual palettes.  If you have any doubts, pass on this and look at some of Kat's standard palettes- you'll love the quality of those.  Or better yet, get Urban Decay's Vice 2 palette.  I think you'll find you won't miss this offering from Kat Von D at all.

My grade:  B- for half of it being a re-promote, poor color payoff, and the crumbly quality of a lot of shades.  For nearly $60 buy something else.

I'm thinking that the sheerness is meant to be layered (Kat's packaging repeats that idea of layering the sheerer, more colored shades over the dark ones), but I like all colors to pay off equally.  No sense layering if you have to make 10 swipes to get it to show up.  By then, you've got a muddy mess.  And for $55 this needs to apply like Urban Decay, which it doesn't.

I hope this helps give you a better look at this palette.  Did you see any you loved?  Sorry if I burst the bubble for some of you really jonesing for this palette.  I truly feel it could've been so much better and the colors could've been richer.  Let me know your thoughts.

Have a great day,



Natalye said...

I really love these colors! I'm still thinking about buying it. I really love Oddfellow!

Chris said...

Wow, I stumbled upon your review just now and I'm glad I'm not the only one who noticed this palette is kind of sheer and crumbly. I've never used Kat Von D's eyeshadows before, but I have swatched them plenty in stores (colours weren't unique enough to my large stash). I was expecting incredibly rich pigment that lasts all day on my eyes. While some are very pigmented and smooth, several others were sheer, crumbly, and dare I say a tad frosty! Also, they fade quite a bit on my eyes over my trusty Nars primer (which you have mentioned doesn't work too well with these powders).

I really don't have the time to apply these eye shadows wet to get the colour I see int he pan, nor do I want to buy another primer.

I'm definitely still on the fence with this one, as there are some lovely colours overall.

Baroque In Babylon said...

Hi Natalye- if Sephora has a FF sale, pick it up. I love the UD Vice 2 though...I had to say it, but get that one instead if you're looking for a great palette.

Baroque In Babylon said...

Hi Chris! Oh I was so disappointed. I have 5 of Kat's regular palettes and they're all really wonderful (except those useless cream shadows). Sadly, this palette was just 'meh'. Such a let down! I'm glad to see I'm not the only one. I hope to keep it because I'm a bit of a makeup hoarder and work with it...but yeah, disappointed. I've tried the following primers with it so far (since the post) MAC Concealer (worked great), Mark primer (ok), Nars (better, but not great), Pixie Epoxy(better with sheerer shades, still sticky), and Coastal Scents concealer (better)...overall these shadows need a semi sticky base for the sheerer colors. I just don't want to work that hard with a nearly $60 palette.

Emmy said...

hello!! i am planning on getting the naked palette and another one. I'm torn between this one, the vice 2 and kat von d spellbinding. I'm new at trying higher end makeup, I just have sephora's blockbuster eyeshadows 2011 and just bought the superstars kit. Being new at this which palette would you recomend me? I want something that it's really worth the money

Baroque In Babylon said...

Hi Emmy! I would absolutely recommend the Vice 2 palette. I think the Kat Von D palette is pretty, but not worth the cost. However, I've yet to have an UD shadow be disappointing. If you prefer neutrals however, try the Naked 2- it's a lovely set to begin with!